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UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide Angela Hawse |
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Alpinist, Athlete, Motivational Speaker and Technical Rigger
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I have worked as a full-time Professional Guide and Outdoor Educator for over two decades, following my passion of being in the mountains, guiding and teaching. My breadth of experience in climbing and guiding is well beyond most other top women guides currently in the U.S., and my safety record is excellent. My clients and I have been rewarded with many summits, memorable experiences and trips together.
Since the early 1990’s, I have led over 20 high altitude expeditions, many to remote corners of the earth. Highlights have included 5 Denali Expeditions, Carstensz Pyramid, Ama Dablam, Everest, Aconcagua and unnamed peaks in Pakistan. In 1998, I was the Deputy Leader of the Everest Challenge Expedition and played a key role in the first disabled ascent of Mt. Everest. I reached the South Summit, known as the 2nd highest point on earth, just 275ft. shy of the true summit, forced back by high winds.
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Two weeks later, Tom Whittaker made history as the first amputee to reach the summit of Mt. Everest.
Personal climbing and exploration has taken me throughout the U.S., the Andes, Alaska Range, Canadian Rockies, Patagonia, the Himalaya and Karakoram. In 1988 I did a 26-day self-supported ski traverse across Lapland from Sweden to Norway with two friends. I am versed in all disciplines of climbing including; Traditional and Sport, Big Wall, Alpine, Ice and High Altitude Mountaineering.
I have been a guide and advocate of Women’s Climbing Programs for the past decade, including Chicks with Picks, Women that Rock, Chicks on Cracks and clinics for my sponsors. Although I very much enjoy guiding men and women alike, there is a very special energy, support and encouragement when a group of women climb together that I thrive on.
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My focus with many of my expeditions has been to incorporate Service Projects and an ethic of Giving-Back. As a result of my work, in 2001 I earned a Master of Arts degree in International Mountain Conservation. Projects have included a clean-up on Everest that I organized with our Sherpa team to remove over 100 oxygen bottles and 1000kg of garbage from high camps on the South Col Route in 1998. In conjunction with that expedition I also organized a 16-credit course for a small group of Prescott College students to carry out service work in the Khumbu Valley and home stays with Sherpa families while we were on the mountain. In 2001, I led a successful expedition on Aconcagua that removed 1000kg from high camps on the Normal Route.
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In 2003, I organized and led an All-Women’s expedition to Ama Dablam, a 22,494ft. Peak in the Everest Region. Calling ourselves the Mamas Dablam, we climbed the mountain without Sherpa support and as a group of women dedicated to Giving-Back, we raised $23,000 for the dZi Foundation to start a safe house for girls in Sikkim.
Dedicated to furthering my education and expertise as a guide, I very actively pursued further training and certification. In 2010 I became the 6th woman in the U.S. achieve UIAGM / IFMGA Full Mountain Guide Certification. The process entailed rigorous courses and exams in all three disciplines of Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering. This has opened doors for me to climb with you in other the 21 other IFMGA member countries including Canada and throughout Europe. To date only 60 guides in the U.S have completed all three exams.
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Active in my profession, I have served as a Director on the American Mountain Guides Association Board for 5 years and this past year as Vice President. I am a member of the AMGA Instructor Pool and train aspiring guides in the Rock discipline. I also teach guide trainings, rope safety and rescue clinics for a number of different companies.
I’ve worked as a Product Tester for Nike and Moonstone and am currently on the Alpinist Mountain Standards Panel and work with Black Diamond Equipment as a field tester, reviewing a wide variety of technical products. I am a proud ambassador for my Sponsors and enjoy the role I play in developing innovative products.
As a guide, my primary concern is your safety. With that comes a great deal of fun, learning and engaging in experiences that will be memorable for a lifetime. I hope to have the opportunity to climb with you and help you achieve climbs, summits and experiences not yet imagined!
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 © Gabe Rogel |
My Dog Chile and I. Chile accompanies me on most adventures and tags along frequently on trips with my private clients. She has climbed several 14'ers here in Colorado, including the NW Face of Wilson Peak and different routes on Mt. Sneffel's four times! She loves spring skiing and when the going gets a little deep or long, she is just as happy in my pack. She is a favorite subject of Marmot photographers, Ace Kvale and Gabe Rogel.
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